There is something interesting about discovering a fabric that was made for another purpose, perhaps another collection, but never found its way into a finished garment.
In the textile industry, these materials are often referred to as deadstock: existing fabrics left over from previous production, cancelled orders or unused inventory. Some are ordinary, others are remarkable. What interests us is the possibility of finding something exceptional among them.
At DADAIST, fabric often comes before design. We spend considerable time exploring materials, studying their weight, texture, composition and the way they fall against the body. Sometimes a fabric immediately suggests a particular garment. Other times, we keep it aside until the right idea emerges.
Our material exploration has led us to cloth from established Italian textile houses, including Loro Piana. Known for its expertise in fine wool and cashmere, Loro Piana represents a long tradition of textile development. Among the fabrics we've explored are soft cashmere cloths, wool blends and refined cotton-silk compositions, each with its own character.
What makes these materials special isn't simply their provenance. It's the feeling of the cloth in your hands, the depth of its colour, the way it responds to light or how naturally it settles into a silhouette. These qualities are often difficult to communicate through a photograph, but they become apparent when the garment is worn.
Working with limited quantities also introduces a different way of designing. Rather than beginning with an unlimited production plan, we work with what is available. A particular length of cloth might be enough for only a handful of jackets. Once it is used, finding exactly the same material again may not be possible.
We like this limitation. It encourages us to be deliberate about what we make and gives each fabric a particular place within the collection.
There is also a practical value in working with materials that have already been produced. Using existing cloth can help avoid commissioning new fabric for a small run, although it does not automatically make a garment sustainable. Quality, durability, production methods and how long something remains in use still matter.
Ultimately, our interest in found fabrics comes back to a simple idea: good materials deserve to be used.
A beautiful piece of cloth shouldn't lose its value simply because it belongs to a previous season or was never made into the garment originally intended for it.
Sometimes it only needs a different perspective.
